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fellerts

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https://fellerts.no

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Jam a stick in the ground aligned with the earth's axis and take your bearing from the shadow's direction. Then follow GP's instructions. Never mind that we've reinvented the sundial...

CTRL + W usually deletes everything until the previous whitespace, so it would delete the whole '/var/log/nginx/' string in OP's example. Alt + backspace usually deletes until it encounters a non-alphanumeric character.

Be careful working CTRL + W into muscle memory though, I've lost count of how many browser tabs I've closed by accident...

  I’m surprised that they chose to add a bunch of components to feed the AC line frequency to the microcontroller instead of just using a 32.768 kHz crystal. A single crystal oscillator seems like both the cheaper and more accurate option
The power line frequency is carefully monitored and adjusted to ensure that deviations from the ideal (60 Hz in OP's case) are smoothed out [0]. Even a single ppm deviation equates to 2.6 seconds per month, and your cheap 32.768 kHz crystal is going to be orders of magnitude worse than that.

[0] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Utility_frequency#Stability

I think this package does exactly what you need: https://pkg.go.dev/github.com/google/gopacket/routing. Works on my machine (error handling left to the reader)

    router, _ := routing.New()
    iface, _, _, _ := router.Route(net.ParseIP("8.8.8.8"))
    fmt.Println(iface.Name)
this prints my Ethernet interface as expected. It doesn't make any requests, it just figures out where to route a packet. I guess it interfaces with the OS routing table.

The peak is a handful of requests per second. If you have a static site, the cheapest Hetzner tier handles it just fine.

Most services just include cleaning and relubrication. Parts don’t wear out that quickly.

Most watches from before the quartz crisis (pre ‘70s) used standard off-the-shelf Swiss movements for which spare parts are still readily available. It can get tricky with expensive or rare in-house stuff like Omega and Rolex though.

My drawer is already full of radium dials. I'm not sure adding nanoparticles to the mix is a very good idea.

I've never heard of index matching fluids! Will have to read up on this.

I tried, but they're very difficult to cast. Epoxy resin is also very brittle and difficult to cut neat and square. A jagged edge does not bond very well to a smooth surface.

The minute hand is set to 43-ish minutes past the hour while the hour hand is showing 15-ish minutes past noon/midnight. If you’re used to reading analog watches it’s jarring.

It is remarkable indeed! When not ruining watches with resin I enjoy servicing them, and I'm planning to learn how chronographs work next. The ST19 movement is on its way now, another very reasonably priced, reliable and fully mechanical chronograph with a column wheel. Hats off to the Chinese.

I never gave that any serious thought. What additives would do that, do you think?

Edit: A quick search reveals that there is quite a lot of prior art from the optical community. Darn, maybe I'm not done here.

Well, if Bartosz doesn't reach out (I offered to send it to him), I'll consider sending it to Adam. My favorite builds of his are boxes that reflect their contents, and I'd love to see what he'd consider for something like this.

Thank you! That video somehow slipped by my feed, but I'll make sure to check it out.

I'd imagine Adam getting a kick out of my resin project, but I don't think he hangs out on HN.

Never tried, because fluorocarbon's index of refraction (1.42-ish) is further from epoxy resin (1.50-1.57) than nylon (1.53). It does make sense that fluorocarbon has replaced nylon because it's going to be less visible in water (1.33).

I guess the epoxy's index of refraction depends on all kinds of factors such as the mixing ratio and the conditions under which it cures.

I suspect you're right, but knowing myself I'd quickly get sick of sanding (6 faces with 5-6 different kinds of sandpaper), and I'd want an orbital sander. Then I'm pretty sure you want to polish the surfaces: lots of elbow grease or a polishing/buffing tool. If I had a workshop with space for tools and dust I'd probably go for it, but I'm doing this in the living room of a small apartment.

Here's the process as explained by a reputable epoxy vendor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-WYOK90KNo

Yep, nylon and epoxy resin have similar indices of refraction, but it's not perfect. I tried casting thin rods out of epoxy to replace the nylon but failed to achieve a good result.

You just clarified something I’ve unknowingly wondered about for years! Hardware stores here sell duct tape as you describe it, but it’s commonly referred to as «gaffer tape» in my native tongue (Norwegian: gaffateip). I’ve never come across the cloth tape you describe, but I now realise it’s not a skill issue when I can never seem to tear clean strips of the stuff. I’ll keep my eyes open for proper «gaffer's tape» from now on.