"Enterprise" Java does not need to be the way you have experienced it. We are getting ready to release a fairly complex Java application that addresses a very significant pain point. The major components of the entire application are highly decoupled. Our team is currently two developers, and we do not envision it to grow over three. The whole development process took only 8 months.
So... don't blame Java for poor architects or poor engineering/business leadership...
(And, btw, I'd love to talk to you if you are in the Boston area.)