Sadly there's (seemingly) no way to interview people for this ability
In a recent interview, I spent 45 minutes pairing with a current employee. Our goal was to take a (contrived) piece of legacy code, clean it up, and add a new feature to it. I imagine it was a very telling experience for them, and I feel it was more useful than the whiteboarding we'd done before.
Hopefully we as an industry will keep iterating on this sort of interview.