HN user
True, I don't think anybody will be printing toaster ovens this way. The plastic/elastic properties of metal does make metal parts printed this way quite different in performance from parts printed in plastic. Not to mention the temp. ratings. Purity stamp for silver PMC after firing is 99.9%
process is the same as for firing metal clay objects you might make by hand in a jewelry studio. Let it dry, program kiln to the specs given with the clay, and fire for 2 hours.
Have been working with a pottery studio that does quite a bit of reduced-firing for special types of glazes. The clays that require low-oxygen to be fired can be embedded in special types of activated charcoal & reducing agents within the kiln. We've had some excellent results with bronze, have yet to try iron & steel. The firing instructions on those clays are similar to the bronze, however.
Agreed. They are rough, not bad for a prototype i built on salary of a part-time library employee ;-> The quality will certainly improve. I have demonstrated proof of concept & have clay trace widths down to 450 microns. I have been able to print mini clay pots up to 25 layers tall. Clay blend formula is current topic of R&D. The essential challenge is to extrude with thick enough clay that it does not slump, yet thin enough to fuse together as it dries. -david
printing in wax works great, but then you have to do lost wax:
1.attach sprues, 2.invest inplaster cast, 3. wax burn-out in kiln(which you still need), 4. centrifuge cast (with torch & crucible) 5. cast removal, 6. sprue removal (with saw, file) 7. fine clean-up (with dentist tools, fine files) 8. Surface finish.
With metal clay, you print, clean up like clay greenware, fire, and polish. equipment: printer, kiln, polishing misc.