A good replacement for Gmail?

So I think Gmail has finally jumped the shark.

I just spent too much time looking for the setting button on my gmail screen to turn off html email, hidden behind all the social crap they want me to give a shit about, and I decided to start looking for a new webmail client.

Any ideas? I want something minimal that looks like the original gmail, before I had to turn off/ ignore circles, chat, video, plus (wtf?), etc etc.

Plus the old colors were much better -- it was great to have blue backgrounds to border off the important things. Now it is just a sea of ugly white. Yuck.